tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-60174115950422360072024-02-22T10:05:58.798-08:00Birk's PlaceUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger154125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-9558457344748583642015-11-30T09:28:00.001-08:002015-11-30T09:28:13.281-08:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgttlQ_O45bWjURY_1YY9DDqTqfioDSPJoNqV4xxGwQWqjOVlxCrr4n3xarldA6CZZVOmQSkGCyq6w9c1B2jVpbsto_CwEJE8s7ZfawK_O5aAS8awJMmcr2Z0uhWhf9A8JeFrMOh2NFqcA/s1600/IMG_0729.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgttlQ_O45bWjURY_1YY9DDqTqfioDSPJoNqV4xxGwQWqjOVlxCrr4n3xarldA6CZZVOmQSkGCyq6w9c1B2jVpbsto_CwEJE8s7ZfawK_O5aAS8awJMmcr2Z0uhWhf9A8JeFrMOh2NFqcA/s400/IMG_0729.JPG" /></a>
Sadly Birk Petersen Passed away Wednesday, November 25, 2015
Birk loved building steam engines, small scale models, and whimsical creations of his own
imagination. He loved showing his amazing collection to visitors. Some of Birk's favorite
visitors were kids, he enjoyed watching their enthusiasm as they turned cranks, got their
hair to stand on end, and dumped out a whole scoop of candy from the steam shovel.He also
loved sharing his creations with his blogging community and friends on the internet from
all over the world.
This blog only showcases a fraction on the many wonderful creations the Birk has built over the years. He was and inspiration to us all. Please take time to browse through this blog. Nothing would make him happier than having others enjoy his work.
Feel free to leave comments and memories below.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-77118644441460913462015-11-15T11:10:00.000-08:002015-11-15T11:52:11.970-08:00IMMORTALIZED GRASSHOPPER<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I was out there raking up some leaves when I spotted a poor
old grasshopper. He was cold and sluggish, probably very near the end of
his life span (after all it is November) so it was not much problem to catch him, but he kept
wanting to wiggle and squirm around, even tried to kick me so I had to fumigate him. Then he
kind of went flop like a dead grasshopper. I had a heck of a time to get
him to sit up and look natural. I heated a stick of sprue wax and stuck
to his head then placed him on a piece of wax paper and tried to work
some casting investment plaster all around him. He was not quite
in a natural position, but as close as I could get him. After the primer coat of investment had
set up it was placed in a flask and filled full of more investment
plaster. Then a 5 hour session through the burnout furnace where the
temperature was gradually increased up to nearly 1400 degrees F., which volatilized organic material, and then
reduced back to 900 degrees in the last hour prior to casting. The casting
turned out good with excellent detail except for the antenna which were
about as thick as a hair broke off.<br />
That grasshopper has now been
immortalized forever in bronze.
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Can you imagine an 82 year old man messing around with something as
silly as casting a grasshopper in bronze?<br />
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Note:<br />
The two pictures showing the heating arrangement and pouring were simulated to give you and idea of the process. Working alone I could not photograph that part in action.oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-29278097371562449852015-10-30T10:04:00.001-07:002015-10-30T10:07:21.741-07:00GENERATING STATION<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A model generating station has just been completed. It is not a scale model, but a simple representation of a very early 1900s vintage generator, shown below.<br />
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These were low voltage high current machines. I'm not sure of all the things they were used for, but some powered arc furnaces to refine metals.<br />
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The pole pieces for the model were made from 1/2" steel plate machined to shape. Above you see some of the forming taking place on a rotary table mounted on the milling machine.<br />
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The commutator was built by turning a copper sleeve and epoxy gluing it on a turned Micarta insulator sleeve , and then sawing a slit between the segments.<br />
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Several castings were needed, but I only had to make a pattern for the base. The other patterns were pulled out of my pattern pool.<br />
If you note the brushes are set up like the original, so they can be rotated around to find the place of greatest efficiency. The field magnetism is provided by a stack of ceramic magnets clamped between the pole pieces. The armature is wound with regular magnet wire.<br />
The generator was under construction during most of the month of October, and was finally completed yesterday. Below is a short video of it doing it's thing.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-91164904680368399892015-10-05T14:10:00.000-07:002015-10-05T14:12:45.853-07:00OLDHAM'S COUPLING<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Another project has just been completed called Oldham's coupling named after the inventor John Oldham, (1779-1840) an Irish engineer. It is simple and compact, and unlike a universal joint it is constant velocity. Although it was invented about 200 years ago it is still used in many of today's machines in various forms.<br />
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My project was constructed by looking at the picture the Z5 thing shown above. Which was probably a classroom demonstrator.<br />
Below is a short video of it in operation. In the video the shafts are offset slightly over 1/2". As you can see it works very free and easy. It is just so much fun to turn cranks.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-40938058228020379862015-10-01T15:43:00.002-07:002015-10-01T15:43:43.388-07:00RECTILINEAR<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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While searching the web looking for things of interest and ran onto this gadget, which is a demonstrator of James Booth's 1843 invention of a "rectilinear" linkage or mechanical motion that was intended to be used on a compact steam engine. Apparently there are no records that such an engine was ever built. However more recently English model builder Anthony Mount ran onto the patent drawings and designed a scale model. It is the model shown to the right on the cover of his book shown below.<br />
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This project started by making a wood pattern and pouring castings. While I was at it, I also poured castings for the next intended project.<br />
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This was a simple project with few parts, but still took several days. Yesterday it became operational, and this morning it received a little paint and a wood base. Although it is interesting to watch the movement, I do not know how practical it would be in a steam engine. I'm sure my model will end up being another desk toy.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-55616322303906529952015-09-21T18:47:00.001-07:002015-09-21T18:54:12.507-07:00QUADRA-HEXA THING<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Another workshop project has just been completed. I do not even know what it is called or what it would be used for, but for a lack of a better name I'll call it a Quadra-Hexa Thing because it has a four arm rotor on one end and six arm rotor on the other. Inspiration to build it came from looking at pictures of mechanical mechanisms. This thing uses ideas from two similar mechanisms incorporated into one.<br />
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Construction started by sawing a couple chunks out of 3/4" thick aluminum plate for the larger rotors.<br />
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Then to the rotary table on the milling machine to finish the arms.<br />
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The small rotors were milled out of solid 416 stainless steel bar. They are not very big, but time intensive because so many different surfaces requiring different setups.<br />
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The bearing standards were fabricated out of steel brazed together.<br />
A coat of paint and a walnut base and it was finished as seen in the first picture.<br />
It will rotate in either direction, and by turning the crank at either end. I was surprised how smooth it operates.<br />
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If nothing else I suppose it would make a good desk toy. It is fascinating to turn the cranks and watch the action.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-978655014395019202015-09-08T18:37:00.002-07:002015-09-08T18:42:18.704-07:00WATER RAM<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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For something completely different this time I picked a water ram. They use the energy of running water to pump a portion of it to a higher location where it is needed. Although they are seldom seen, they are still in use in remote areas. This one of course is just a tiny working model standing only about 5" high.<br />
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It started by finding a suitable looking picture. It is a little difficult to read, but the lettering on the prototype reads "The Gould Mfg Co". Two patterns and a core box were required, as can be seen in the above picture.<br />
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This picture shows the sand mold with the core in place prior to putting the cope in place to pour the castings. After pouring the casting the sand core is removed leaving the pressure dome hollow.<br />
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Here the molten aluminum is being poured into the mold. Extra castings were poured in case there was a defect I would not have to do it over again. They all turned out OK.<br />
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With castings in hand the machining started. A few parts or operations each day until it was complete. Then came the testing to see if it would work. At first it would not, but after a couple minor changes and adjustments it took of doing what water rams do, Pump Water. Take a look!<br />
The water supply for this model simply comes from a plastic bucket. A prototype would be placed near a stream. <br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-44700674680386710712015-08-23T11:45:00.001-07:002015-08-23T11:45:20.758-07:00HOOKED<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Yesterday I Hooked fish on the pole that sticks out on the front of the little barn. It started out as a welded framework of heavy galvanized wire, and I had to sacrifice a pair of my denim jeans to make the skin out of. The purpose: to create a smile on passers by. It is 40 inches long.<br />
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There have already been a couple of the commercially made, fish shape decorative wind sock things made out of Taffeta on the pole. Taffeta does not hold up when exposed to the elements. Hopefully the denim will.<br /><br />
<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-91093618654700163922015-08-12T14:15:00.001-07:002015-08-12T14:15:34.684-07:00ROCKING ENGINE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Another little replica engine of the electrical driven type. I had actually been inspired to build this one some time ago when I seen a picture on the Internet, and I did make the flywheel at that time, however it was put on hold while I built a couple ball roller machines.<br />
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The flywheel was made from 3 pieces of scrap brass machined and then soldered together. Machining the curved spokes was an interesting rotary table exercise as can be seen above.<br />
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It turned out quite nice, but as I said, was set aside while I built a couple other projects.<br />
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When I got back to it work proceeded a couple parts or operations per day. It was built by looking at a picture, only changed around so that it is not a copy, although it operates on the same principal. The base was milled out of a piece of hard Maple. Construction time, a couple days under two weeks which is pretty quick for me.<br />
Below is a short video so you can see it running.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-83247092191194764342015-08-02T09:29:00.000-07:002015-08-02T09:29:38.161-07:00RUNNERS ON THE ROAD<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The workshop is always in need of another project and there were a lot of ball bearings in stock so how about another silly ball roller operated by a crank.<br />
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Started out by machining the device that returns the balls back to the top of the track. I've built these before and each one is different depending on the application, but they work similar. I also made a mock up of the flip flop device that will direct the balls alternately down the two track groves.<br />
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Next I built the frame and track. The track was milled out of hard maple.<br />
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Once I was satisfied with the operation of the balls rolling down the track I moved on to making the runners. They too were made from hard maple. Starting with a simple sketch that I had drawn for a pattern, body parts were blocked out with the scroll saw, and then shaped with a Dremel tool. Hip and knee joints were milled with the milling machine.</div>
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Painting of the runner figures was with tole paints, and they were assembled with heavy duty dressmakers pins.</div>
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Finally after being at it for about 3 weeks the runners were ready to go for a run. Right lively bunch. Take a look for yourself.</div>
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-78923121017808684342015-07-09T09:56:00.001-07:002015-07-09T09:56:11.167-07:00EGG DROP SOUP MACHINE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEalXc1AgskWJE-Klhk0uH7SBevkTLZyouJtVDu29aTrKBAbeEWxGr000B-sRRCPpH88e0cgwzwgDwaSBHrodSlnPgtzUJKQbOw-yN8-TuiBhPJyuswIB-D9nEq6TdV2BndbvvHYpo2bw/s1600/2015-07-09+09.02.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEalXc1AgskWJE-Klhk0uH7SBevkTLZyouJtVDu29aTrKBAbeEWxGr000B-sRRCPpH88e0cgwzwgDwaSBHrodSlnPgtzUJKQbOw-yN8-TuiBhPJyuswIB-D9nEq6TdV2BndbvvHYpo2bw/s320/2015-07-09+09.02.21.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
After building several electromagnetic motor models it was time for something whimsical. So how about an Egg Drop Soup Machine to idle away some otherwise empty hours.<br />
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I had spent time on the Internet looking at marble rollers trying to get ideas and I finally settled on birds passing the marbles or ball bearings in my case. I seen one of fish passing the marbles so birds would not be an exact copy, and then I also incorporated a hand cranked pump to return the balls back up to the top.The design started by drawing a bird and making copies and placing them on a paper to work out the kinetics as seen in the picture. That is also about the time I came up with the name.<br />
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Castings would be needed so patterns for the birds were carved, and the others could be reused from previous projects.<br />
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A day of foundry work and the castings were poured. Aluminum material for melting came courtesy of neighbor Howard Gerstner's old shower stall. I had made steel cores, that also functioned as heat sinks, seen to the right. They formed the mouth and also the slot for the neck.<br />
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The "pump" was a fairly simple thing of my own design that pushes the balls up a tube.<br />
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After everything was built and put together it was taken apart and painted. Here is a picture part way through the painting process.<br />
Finally after some very frustrating hours of adjusting it is working as it was intended during the concept stages. Some of these simple things can be as difficult as real machines to get operational.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-69829175955338497572015-06-03T09:15:00.000-07:002015-07-17T15:37:19.319-07:00FROMENT ELECTRIC MOTOR<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwLvz898GTlYUxjqV4ubUp47M-XDrvE7Dr9XytYCIxeVZ9Vei-Vj77dhHC4_WRMukOuMFMhWFCY-QAgs4iR083vuEfzso9Buvo8Sw8sL_VCm0JhMCFRS2awOzVry7JcliYm6NLgGmJAd4/s1600/2015-06-03+09.26.54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwLvz898GTlYUxjqV4ubUp47M-XDrvE7Dr9XytYCIxeVZ9Vei-Vj77dhHC4_WRMukOuMFMhWFCY-QAgs4iR083vuEfzso9Buvo8Sw8sL_VCm0JhMCFRS2awOzVry7JcliYm6NLgGmJAd4/s320/2015-06-03+09.26.54.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
While looking at pictures of old electric motors, there was a picture of the first motor built by Paul Gustave Froment in 1845. The design looked as though it would make an interesting model.<br />
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The flywheel was the first part. I wanted an excuse to try the new rotary table that I had received for the mini mill just a few days prior. It worked great, the table is now justified.<br />
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A image was down loaded from the Internet of a reproduction that someone had built. It was almost identical to the image of the original motor, except much clearer. The image was re sized so the the flywheel measured 2 1/2" diameter, same as the one I had machined. From there everything could be made in proportion without the need of making a drawing.<br />
Yesterday the final parts were completed and assembled, and of course it needed to be tested with power. Connected to a 6 volt battery it ticks over at a nice leisurely pace. Take a look at the video.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-2001062114210905632015-05-22T15:28:00.000-07:002015-05-22T15:28:11.540-07:00PACINOTTI MACHINE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4rAzEZ6hL59VsM5IkjtSTEPDZIh77TSXdIMu4FaqxoJpORFhgJjnr0TrN5WIbGhjCIgEBKFj37WOup3r_Pu7CNVpk7cg_cIGwDM5Lvaj-PuIPdx47P-UzsVefKRN8s1aK5OIBC1nV0Eo/s1600/2015-05-22+15.02.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4rAzEZ6hL59VsM5IkjtSTEPDZIh77TSXdIMu4FaqxoJpORFhgJjnr0TrN5WIbGhjCIgEBKFj37WOup3r_Pu7CNVpk7cg_cIGwDM5Lvaj-PuIPdx47P-UzsVefKRN8s1aK5OIBC1nV0Eo/s320/2015-05-22+15.02.48.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
In the same book where I found the Bourbouze motor there were other electrical devises, one of them called the Pacinotti Machine. It looked interesting and after a bit of reading about it, I found that it was invented by Antonio Pacinotti, a professor of physics at the college in Pisa, Italy about 1860. The original machine was designed as a dynamo, but Antonio found that it would also operate as a motor. The invention turned out to be quite significant, although Antonio did not realize what he had stumbled onto until several years after he built it. The principals are still in use today.<br />
The illustration in the book was enlarged to the size that I wanted to build the device, so that I could simply take measurements right off the picture. For your reference the rotor is about 2 1/2" diameter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMoN7R6xCMaissjg_yFKO0r2Oe1vZ0qqaGQ6lvyINidZ6ZsHKOdAD9SnaAQAymCQu84EHc-RBJabQxUuVRHucboMRCoo1Syt8MUduLPJhNbVVRxarBqbReUhNvyh7v5WmQqgoiRIqwUKQ/s1600/2015-05-09+08.11.19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMoN7R6xCMaissjg_yFKO0r2Oe1vZ0qqaGQ6lvyINidZ6ZsHKOdAD9SnaAQAymCQu84EHc-RBJabQxUuVRHucboMRCoo1Syt8MUduLPJhNbVVRxarBqbReUhNvyh7v5WmQqgoiRIqwUKQ/s320/2015-05-09+08.11.19.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Construction began by making rotor and stator parts out of 1/4" thick steel plate. The stator part needed to be a ring with the two halves separated by nonmagnetic material. Antonio used brass so I did the same.<br />
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The 16 coils on the rotor were separated with wood wedges, same as the original. If not the first, this was one of the very first devices to use a commutator. I made this one by cementing copper strips to an insulating hub, and then wrapping with thread cemented in place. I would suspect that is pretty close to how the original was made.<br />
Finally on the 19th of May it was completed, but I simply could not get it to run as a motor. Then this morning at the suggestion of my friend Paul Spencer, I checked the wiring connections, and I had two of the wires connected wrong. Soon as I exchanged them it took off running like a champ. Here is a video. I have no idea what caused it to slow down near the end, perhaps a poor connection to the power source or something?<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-46677832857678437272015-04-24T09:42:00.001-07:002015-04-24T10:58:44.631-07:00BOURBOUZE BEAM MOTOR<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span id="goog_1498799312">While thumbing through an old issue of Modeltec magazine</span> I ran across some line drawing sketches of early attempts to build electric-magnetic motors. One in particular, the Bourbouze, intrigued me and a quick search of the internet and I found that Google had an ebook with a picture of the engine, so I ordered a printed copy. Using a copier I enlarged the picture so it matched the size of a flywheel casting that I had on hand. Enough drawing was done to work out magnet dimensions, and other measurements were taken directly off the picture.<br />
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Magnet spools and slide switch were machined out of Micarta material.<br />
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Winding of the magnet wire onto the spools was done using the mini lathe. It has variable speed and would slow down to a comfortable speed for winding. The wire was tensioned and guided onto the spool with a gloved hand. The lathe is reversible, and two spools were wrapped right hand and two left hand. The wire was covered with a layer of cloth and bound with sewing thread, and then given a coat of varnish to seal it in, in a manner to the originals.<br />
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The slide switch was a project all by its self. There are probably better ways to make a switch, but I was trying to duplicate the original somewhat.<br />
When Bourbouze built his motor about 150 years ago, he modified an existing steam engine with magnetic coils in place of pistons and a slide switch in place of a slide valve. Bourbouze's engine ran, but electricity at that time was usually provided by batteries because dynamos and generating equipment had not yet been perfected. Batteries of that time were expensive, and not very efficient. Consequently Bourbouze's motor was not competive with other power sources, such as steam engines.<br />
I'm sure the picture that I followed to build my model is not of the original engine, but rather a model that someone before me had put together. Still I'm pleased with it. It runs fine on a 6 volt battery, and is completely different than anything I've built before. It is a good addition to the display room.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-80061940559559559912015-03-30T12:43:00.000-07:002015-03-30T12:43:01.154-07:00SAFES<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC4MrjFU0uk28IE82U6PdGFySaOW80DtbUdnMG7_VYtN8dEp4zZpyA_bFYMJxhYjM-nJ_i30zdScUdJqHaE50qk80lsKm_vXQyzef-AAqjS58OEsEitSPHgw4FWLUIzJpuT64mNqvaXT0/s1600/2015-03-30+09.47.45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC4MrjFU0uk28IE82U6PdGFySaOW80DtbUdnMG7_VYtN8dEp4zZpyA_bFYMJxhYjM-nJ_i30zdScUdJqHaE50qk80lsKm_vXQyzef-AAqjS58OEsEitSPHgw4FWLUIzJpuT64mNqvaXT0/s1600/2015-03-30+09.47.45.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Hard cash is getting to be such a scarce commodity these days I decided I had better build a safe to keep mine in. Actually I had a couple old post office mail box doors that needed something to do.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhBrXJzqxnmT8ehnMZuIfqFe2HUWOdmCF3IDd6dmnRPHzf5wgGeor2rbgX4BkqdvFTKN2fAlX9SqWDU_SWed3bX0_-wnZkI39BSvoyQ72bqsmAlwRwPsfGWQAxKwWPhAv8iqbzyemGaE/s1600/2015-03-28+08.47.37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhBrXJzqxnmT8ehnMZuIfqFe2HUWOdmCF3IDd6dmnRPHzf5wgGeor2rbgX4BkqdvFTKN2fAlX9SqWDU_SWed3bX0_-wnZkI39BSvoyQ72bqsmAlwRwPsfGWQAxKwWPhAv8iqbzyemGaE/s1600/2015-03-28+08.47.37.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
It was a fairly simple job that just required cutting some wood and fastening it into a box. The wheels were machined out of scrap pieces of aluminum. Wheels were not really necessary, but give an interesting touch. Looks like the old original safes. The whole job only took a couple days. Much quicker than the previous project that took 4 months.<br /><br />
<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-75472342731170926362015-03-23T19:54:00.000-07:002015-03-30T13:03:47.396-07:00CAROUSELAfter completing the MACHINE last November I was sort of surfing the internet looking at things trying to get an idea for another project when I ran onto images of carousels. Hundreds of them and no two seemed to be exactly alike. That gives a builder a lot of leeway in incorporating ideas of his own. A very labor intensive project, yes, but I went for it anyway and four months later there is one sitting on display in the living room as seen below.<br />
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The above picture is a close up while still in the workshop.</div>
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I could go into a detailed rundown of its construction,but that would get real boring in a hurry, so I'll just show a few highlights.<br />
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The base or foundation was built out of 1/2" Baltic Burch plywood. The base holds the drive mechanism, the transformer for the lights, and the sound system.The entire rotating part of all carousels is carried by a single shaft in the center that supports a structure of wood and metal. Even the lower deck hangs from this structure. <br />
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There needs to be gears to turn the cranks that cause the animals go up and down, and they had to be made special for the job.<br />
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Below is a picture of the column for the model, with a slip ring that provides power for the lights. you also see the Bodine gear motor, drive pulley, and the belt. That yellow belt is out of an old clothes dryer.<br />
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The 24 animals were carved out of Baltic Birch plywood. The reason for using plywood is so the thin sections would have strength in all directions. A left and right side was sawed out for each one using the scroll saw and the two haves glued together. shaping and detailing was done with a Dremel tool using various shaped burrs. It was not a fast operation, it took a whole month to create the animals.<br />
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Painting was done with acrylic tole paints and then embellished with little plastic gems from the Hobby Lobby Store. There are over 1000 of those little gems on this project. That makes it sparkle.<br />
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About half way through the project, Darlene my bride of 61 years ago passed away after a lengthy struggle with dementia. In honor of her I adopted a family theme and decided to decorate the fascia with pictures of our family members. Rather than the most current, I tried to use the most happy looking ones. It required learning a new computer skill of sizing and cropping each face into an oval border. It was a slow process, and about the time I became proficient at it I was done.<br />
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And finally a video of it in action. By the way the amplifier for the sound system is designed for a motor cycle, and the music is stored on a USB flash drive. However it seems to work just fine for this application.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-30973658270706836772014-11-22T08:23:00.001-08:002014-11-23T09:26:38.970-08:00THE MACHINE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In my library are several books showing all sorts of mechanical movements, and I got an idea that building a number of those movements into a machine would make for an interesting project to work on. And it did. The above picture show the results after working at it for about a month and a half. The two pictures below are the side views.<br />
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Here is a video of the mechanisms being cranked into action.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-9563686664991276782014-09-26T09:27:00.001-07:002014-09-26T09:27:13.931-07:00RINGBOM HOT AIR ENGINE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After seeing a Ringbom engine operating at a hobby machinist gathering and being intrigued with it, I decided to build one myself. I already had a booklet about them in by library written by Dr. James Senft. According to the information in the book they were invented by Ossian Ringbom in 1907. However there is no evidence that any of the engines were ever built. Using a patent drawing Dr. Senft had worked up a set of construction drawings for a miniature working model, which I used as a basis for this model, except I doubled the size, and changed some of the materials to be able to use what was on hand.<br />
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The cold end of the displacer cylinder was machined out of solid stainless steel. The hot end is a piece of drain pipe or tube. The displacer is a small shaving soap container. The power cylinder is a piece of automobile shock absorber, and the flywheel is a roller that I picked up at a swap meet, etc. etc.<br /> It is rather strange. Below operating temperature, both starting and stopping it rocks back and forth in half revolutions.<br />
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However after it reaches operating temperature it runs in full circles, and it will run either direction.<br />
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In this video it is running at about minimum operating temperature. Slightly more heat and it will run faster. oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-90061653777536639232014-08-27T18:54:00.000-07:002014-08-31T17:55:02.029-07:00REPLICA OF HENRY FORD'S FIRST ENGINEFor a long time I've had a desire to build a replica of Henry Ford's First engine. The engine is a simple looking thing built mainly of pipe fittings before Henry ever got started into making automobiles. I'm sure he just wanted to see if he could build a gasoline engine that would run, and he did. The year was 1893.<br />
Just as I was looking for another project The Home Shop Machinist magazine came out with a construction article on the engine. What better time to build one than now? First thing to do was search the Internet and I was able to find a couple pictures and other information. My engine is not an exact duplicate of the original. More of a compromise between the article and the pictures that I found. But a close representation. <br />
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The first order of business was to gather what materials were on hand and then a trip to the hardware store for a few pipe fittings.<br />
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Every day I managed to do a couple machining operations or make a part or two.<br />
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Here is a close up of the timing gear, exhaust cam, and sparker switch (breaker points).<br />
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Finally the completed engine. In an attempt to duplicate the original the parts were mounted on an old weathered board.<br />
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Considerable time was spent hand cranking the engine and using starting fluid. I never could get it to pop more than once or twice, and I was beating my hand against the board. So I built a cranking adapter that fit the electric drill. This made it so the engine could be cranked faster and easier, and I finally got it so it would run a couple seconds at a time on it's own.<br />
A whole week was spent trying everything I could think of to get it to run continously. Finally an adapter was made and it was switched over to propane. Same old story, just a few pops at first, but the more I kept trying and adjusting the better it ran until, well look at the video for yourself.<br />
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During the process I learned a few things perhaps I can go back the the drip lubricator and get it to run on gasoline, but out of time for today. Actually I'm pretty excited to have it running at all.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-43079402963687522472014-08-08T08:25:00.002-07:002014-08-08T08:25:56.992-07:00KIMBLE STEAM ENGINETime for another engine project and this time the Kimble Engine out of Elmer Verburg's book was selected, because it is different. Rather than a piston it has a vane.<br />
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The engine was invented by Emory Kimble near the end of the 1800s and manufactured by the Comstock Manufacturing Co. in Michigan. The original engines ranged in size from 2HP to 45 HP, and were produced at a rate of about 25 per month. In addition to the US, shipments were sent to a number of foreign countries.<br />
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The model is a simplified version of the original, and is constructed of brass, stainless steel, with an aluminum base. It was under construction for about a week.<br />
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oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-60706317066704472982014-07-27T09:25:00.000-07:002014-09-10T13:14:20.401-07:00MODEL LEHMAN HOT AIR ENGINEIt was time for another model engine. This time I picked a Lehmann Hot air engine because it has such an interesting linkage motion.<br />
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The Lehmann engine was developed and patented in Germany, but the particular one I built the model of was manufactured in England by W H Bailey Co. under a license agreement around 1860.<br />
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Construction was carried out looking at an illustration that I copied out of a book. It is not and exact scale model, but a pretty close representation. At first glance it looks complicated, but is really a pretty simple engine.<br />
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To start I needed to find some tubing for the cylinder and displacer. I had a 5" long piece of tube from a Bimba air cylinder that could be used where the power piston operates, but it was not long enough for the hot tube, so I tried rolling up some sheet metal for that and also the displacer. When they turned out OK, I proceeded with the patterns for the castings.<br />
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I only needed to make patterns for the water jacket and stand it sits on. I was able to use a base pattern from previous models.<br />
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A graceful curved spoke flywheel like was used on the original German engines was poured, but I changed my mind and ended up using a straight spoke, round rim wheel like was used on the Bailey engines. Fabricating and machining proceeded a little bit each day until yesterday it became a complete and working engine.<br />
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Except for the bolts and screws, it was built entirely from scraps, even melted down some old motorcycle parts for the castings. It turned out great and is one of my best running hot air engines. From what I've read about them, the original engines were some of the best. It has been a most satisfying project. Construction time approximately 5 weeks.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-75653633253902402332014-06-16T17:22:00.001-07:002014-06-16T17:27:13.116-07:00MINI ENGINE<br />
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While trying to think up another project to work on I built a Mini Engine that did not use up a lot of time or material. It was finished Father's June 15, so I have been telling everyone that it is my new Baby.<br />
It really runs to, but goes so fast it is just a blur, take a look.<br />
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Got the engine done, and posted on the blog, and I'm still thinking about a next project, so I do not know if it helped or not.oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-76154407081160323592014-06-01T15:02:00.001-07:002014-06-02T08:16:04.265-07:00ELGIN CUTLASS PISTOL<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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For something unique and different this time I made a replica of an Elgin Cutlass Pistol. They were invented in 1837 by George Elgin, at a time when close combat was often with the use of knives, or swords. Adding a gun seemed like would be quite an improvement. The US Navy purchased 150 of them, and some were issued for use in the 4 year Wilkes South Pacific Exploring Expedition.<br />
They were the only pistol to ever be fitted with a knife, and the first to use a percussion cap, which gives them some historical significance. However the small number manufactured, is probably a testament to their usefulness in combat.<br />
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Construction started by finding some good pictures of the pistol on the Internet, then enlarging them to the full size to be used as patterns. The main frame was cut out of the ugliest scrap I could find. Actually the only one I had with enough mass to it.<br />
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Bits and pieces were slowly pared away to get down to the desired size.<br />
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The barrel simply started as a strip of 7/8" steel plate. This pistol was a smooth bore, so it only required drilling it out to .540" (54 Caliber). Lot of chips milled off to get it to octagon shape.<br />
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The blade was sawed out of 11/32"plate. That was too thick for the blade, but needed to be about that thick to look right for the knuckle guards which are integral.<br />
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The excess thickness was milled off the blade in the milling machine using a fly cutter. Not a very efficient way of manufacturing, but OK I guess for a one of a kind replica. It got the job done.<br />
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The lock parts were hidden from view in all pictures, so I had to guess at what they looked like. You see what I ended up with in the above picture. It works good and that is what counts. The main spring was cut from a piece of 2" wide x .048" thick heavy strapping or banding material. At first it was too soft so it was hardened and tempered. Now it works fine.<br />
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The handle or grip was carved out of a piece of walnut.<br />
Finally this morning after being under construction for a month it is complete and ready to be placed on display, as shown in the first picture of this posting. Although probably not the best fighting weapon, hopefully it will be a good conversation piece.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-30751113927877086212014-04-18T09:08:00.000-07:002014-04-18T09:08:01.776-07:00NON COMPRESSION ENGINE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Time to add a new engine to the collection, and this one is a Non Compression gas engine. As I understand it was a concept being experimented with 100 or so years ago. The engines run on 2 cycle. A fuel charge is drawn in for part of a stroke, then the spark plug fires, igniting the fuel and driving the piston the rest of the stroke. The return stroke of the piston is exhaust, and the cycle starts over again.<br />
The engines start and run fairly well, but simply do not develop any amount of usable power. That is why you never see anything but a replica model of one now days.<br />
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As with most any engine, a cylinder, crank, and flywheels, etc. were needed, and to expedite the job I poured castings, using some other castings that I had on hand a foundry patterns. Extras were poured in case there were defects I would not have to do it all over again. There were a couple minor defects, but I was easily able to pick out a set of good castings and proceed. (In a pinch I could have used all of them)<br />
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Machining proceeded, the engine was fitted with a cast iron sleeve in the cylinder and ball bearings for the crankshaft<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The piston and piston ring were machined out of a hunk of automobile cam shaft. That is a high quality cast iron.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I elected to make a roller cam follower to operate the exhaust valve. Those 1/32" diameter cotter pins used to hold the pivot pins were a little delicate, but that is all part of the hobby.<br />
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The cylinder head was machined out of 416 stainless steel, and it is fitted with one of my homemade spark plugs. The valves look very much like automotive valves, but heads are only slightly larger than 1/4". The intake is atmospherically aspirated, similar to most any old single cylinder engine.<br /><br />
Finally on April 15th it was ready for testing to see if it would run. Here is the video. Take a look for yourself.<br />
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During the initial testing the engine was running on propane using the demand regulator that I built last year. It will also run on gasoline using a vapor carburetor. And the ignition buzz coil is also one shown in a previous posting.<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6017411595042236007.post-50722232703298228952014-03-14T09:06:00.000-07:002014-03-14T09:06:55.062-07:00EXERCISE MACHINE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm not sure what inspired this project. Perhaps it was because Daughter in law Angie teaches classes at Golds Gym. Considerable time was spent browsing through images on the Internet of people exercising, and various kinds of exercise equipment trying to pick things that could be worked into an automaton and provide interest.<br />
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To start the process, silhouette type figures were cut out of hard wood using a scroll saw.<br />
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The blocks were then shaped with a Dremel rotary tool. Not exact, but close enough for whimsy. The figures are about 5" tall, and the faces about the size of a fingernail. Some parts were carved separately and either glued or pined in place. Dressmaker pins were were used for a lot of joints and mechanical connections. If some things look out of proportion it is because and artiest is licensed to exaggerate to attract attention to the work. There was a lot of preliminary fitting and testing as the work progressed, as can be seen in the above picture.<br />
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I prefer to not copy other people's work, but the Hula Hoop girl that I seen on You Tube was so unique that I had to bend my rules. All the rest of the figures of my own design. That was the most complicated figure, and it took 9 days to build.<br />
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The Hula girl is driven by gears, and I elected to make peg gears, because I think they are classic.<br />
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Motion is transmitted from the crank to the figures by cams, gears and pulleys. Here is a view into the mechanical compartment.<br />
Finally after working at it doing something every day, 7 days a week for a month and a half it became a working machine yesterday afternoon.<br />
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Now instead of going through a strenuous routine, all I''ll have to do is turn the crank a few turns and I'll have my exercising done for the day!<br />
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<br />oldmechhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02246143544413622991noreply@blogger.com0